|
Beauty and Pain
|
September - Huaraz - Peru
What to do when: sick, solo, and in front of a
stunningly beautiful lake at 15,000ft. Just 5 miles
back to the trailhead..
(more) |
|
Semi Safety
|
December - Corrales NM to Dallas TX - USA
Three guys, one 1986 station wagon, and a blizzard. Crossing
a big expanse of the American West in new-Kerouac style.
(more) |
|
Rurre's spell
|
Sept 1st - Rurrenabaque - Bolivia
My trip to the Amazon Bolivian basin was nothing short of a plant and
wildlife cornucopia, and got me wondering, "when are you *really* in the
jungle?"
(more) |
|
The Art of Getting Home
|
Aug 20th - Quimsa Cruz Mountains - Bolivia
Ever lusted after a choose-your-own-adventure moment?
One cold night in a worsening snowstorm I had two options..
(more)
|
|
Ever Upward
|
Aug 1st - Mt. Huayna Potosi - Bolivia
It was 7:00am and maybe 15F. 6000m (19,600ft) above sea level,
I was climbing a wall of ice and snow, with just 100m to
the snowy summit..
(more) |
|
Shamanic Verses
|
July 25th - Isla del Sol - Bolivia
I didn't expect to be sitting on a starlit ledge
with an Andean Shaman for a midnight meditation,
but there are stranger places than Lake Titicaca
for this to occur.
(more) |
|
Sweet, Sweet Sucre
|
July 15th - Sucre - Bolivia
What happens to a traveler every day? What if
that traveler is in Bolivia? And what if there
are juice bars?! A day in the life..
(more) |
|
Walk the Rainbow - Trekkin'
|
July 5th - Tupiza - Bolivia
Although my luck hadn't been stellar in the past month,
I decided to test fate on a two-day minitrek and see if I could
avoid killing myself.
(more) |
|
Dances with Bicycles Pt 2, Expedition
|
June 25th - Salta - Argentina
The truth was that all the cyclists were scared.
Some had holed up in Salta for nearly 3 weeks, waiting
for European reinforcements to arrive before entering
the spare-parts wasteland of Bolivia
(more) |
|
Dances with Bicycles Pt 1, Lunacy
|
June 13th - Salta - Argentina
After meeting a horde of cyclists in Salta, in Northwestern
Argentina, I bought a used bicycle and began to plan an
assault on the Salt Flats of Bolivia. An appropriate
response from a fellow traveler: "Bolivia!? Do you know
how many f-ing mountains there are?!"
(more) |
|
Valparaiso, Uncorrupted
|
May 20th - Valparaíso - Chile
Valparaiso, Chile's historical and once-again great port, was the
lair of indominable poet Pablo Neruda. It's a realm of cobblestones,
plaster and tin -- shifting, crumbling and rusting in aesthetic concert.
(more) |
|
On the Wheels of Jesus
|
Apr 30th - Carretera Austral - Chile
2 hours since the giant lumber truck last rubmled by..
all that's left to do is stick out a thumb, pray a
little, and wait for the next passing priest...
(more) |
|
Sunrise in Patagonia
|
Apr 12th - Argentina - Patagonia
As the morning sunlight first hits my face, I'm cooking oatmeal with
Argentine dulce de leche (milk caramel) on
a campfire stove. For the last hour, I've been at
a rocky lake at the foot of the peaks awaiting the
"sunrise of fire" on Mt. Fitz Roy, a 3405m peak
in Parque National Glacieres..
(more) |
| |
|
TroopinŽin Tierra Del Fuego
|
Apr 8th - Argentina - Tierra Del Fuego
Mariana and I marched faithfully towards Lago Esmeralda, following
the paper map that "Gato" had given us.
On either side, sawtooth mountains looked ready to tear
the soft grey sky overhead. The valley floor is carpeted by a rainbow of
turba, peat moss in a bouquet of colors: red, green,
white, yellow and black, a dragon's mouth laid open..
(more)
|
| |
|
Ni Olvida, Ni Perdón
|
Apr 5th - Argentina - Buenos Aires
In a tourist playground of tango, currency arbitrage and
all-u-can-eat meat, remembering that 30,000 people simply
vanished 30 years ago, including the woman standing before us..
(more)
|
| |
|
On the Island of Honey
|
Mar 12th - Brazil - Ilha do Mel
At nearly 7pm, I'm trotting down a dirt path; my only light to
catch the curves from intermittant lightning flashes
against a dark purple sky. There are no roads here,
no cars, just a three feet of dirt snaking through
the mangroves between villages..
(more) |
| |
.gif)
